Hey ED1G (Paul)

[SINTZ]

Hey, my syphon idea didnt work. The syphon tupe kept hanging up on a reducer joint 10 feet in and I couldnt get past it.



So I need advice.



I plan on blowing it out from the other side as I does have a union I can unhook at the meter.



MY questions;



1. After turning off the gas, should I let the line air out some before putting my compressor to it? Let some the gas disipate?



2. I don't think I'll need much pressure to blow the water out, but I know most gas lines are only tested to 6psi. How can I control the PSI? Should I adjust the compressure to 6PSI?



Any advice?



Here is what I have.



1 1/2" poly from the meter to the pool pump area, then it's black iron the rest of the way reduced to 3/4" about 10 feet from the pool heater shutoff valve. After running the syphon hose up in there, there was no moisture or rust inside the black iron, so I doubt it is rusted out. Seems to be in good condition.

"It's all right letting yourself go, as long as you can get yourself back."


~ Mick Jagger

[ED1G]

Hi Sintz... I will do my best, just had a few people around to the house and had a few wines!!

Quote:

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1. After turning off the gas, should I let the line air out some before putting my compressor to it? Let some the gas disipate?

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Yes definately...

Quote:

---

2. I don't think I'll need much pressure to blow the water out, but I know most gas lines are only tested to 6psi. How can I control the PSI? Should I adjust the compressure to 6PSI?

---

Mm this is a tough one.... When you have an open end on a pipe you can blow a lot more pressure thru... its only when its closed that you have to be carefull with pressure on low pressure pipe lines like gas... I presume they use some sorta paste to seal gas joints ect.... if too much pressure is applied, you may blow the seal on every joint... you dont want this!!!!!... Also we normally only blow outside lines wich are mdpe (plastic) ...



Ok personally, I would strip out the iron pipe.... is this where the water is lying? also you dont need to get every drop of water out.... gas will pass over water as it aint the pressure to move it...



I wish I was there to help ya Sintz...



Paul

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[SINTZ]

Thanks Paul. The problem is a spot in the poly that dips down like a PTrap. When they installed it, it should have been level and next summer I plan on replacing the iron with poly from that point on and correcting the low spot as that's where the water is accumulating.



Since my air pressure is going to push the watter up and out, I realize there will be a certain amount of back pressure and that's where I was concerned about it building up as the water pushes out the other end. I guess I could start at 6lbs since that is what these lines are tested at for 24 hours before putting gas in them. That way I know it will hold it and not blow a seal on the poly which is the push on connections.



All joints use teflon paste as thread/joint sealer.

"It's all right letting yourself go, as long as you can get yourself back."


~ Mick Jagger

[ED1G]

How is the water getting in Sintz? It cant be condense surely?



Paul

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[SINTZ]

Were in Dallas, where one day it can be 28 degrees and the next 90. Of course, if they screwed up the joints between the poly and black iron, it would leak there, but there has been no gas smell make it to the surface so far.

"It's all right letting yourself go, as long as you can get yourself back."


~ Mick Jagger

[SINTZ]

I blew out the pipe and resealed it. I now have gas to the jacuzzi heater, but can still hear some water that didn't blow out. Guess in the spring I'll dig the joint up and replace it, and may replace the iron with poly as well while I have it dug up.

"It's all right letting yourself go, as long as you can get yourself back."




~ Mick Jagger

[ED1G]

Glad you got it sorted Sintz..... I was just looking up this post to see how ya got on!!



Paul

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